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Hi Mogilisetty. We'd love to help you figure out what's going wrong. Please reach out to us here for assistance: www.watts.com/support

Thank you for your interest. Please reach out to us here so that we can learn more and help: www.watts.com/support

Thank you for your interest. Please reach out to us here so that we can learn more and help: www.watts.com/support

Thank you for your interest. Please reach out to us here so that we can learn more and help: www.watts.com/support

Thank you for your interest. Please reach out to us here so that we can learn more and help: www.watts.com/support

Thank you for your interest. Please reach out to us here so that we can learn more and help: www.watts.com/support

Thank you for your interest. Please reach out to us here so that we can learn more and help: www.watts.com/support

Thank you for your interest. Please reach out to us here so that we can learn more and help: www.watts.com/support

Thank you for your interest, Jacob, but we do not have the other two parts done yet.

Please reach out to us here so that we can learn more and help: www.watts.com/support

2:22

Thank you for your interest. Please reach out to us here so that we can learn more and help: www.watts.com/support

Sorry for the delay in response. Please reach out to us here so that we can learn more and help: www.watts.com/support

Sorry for the delay in response. Please reach out to us here so that we can learn more and help: www.watts.com/support

Thank you for reaching out to us. Please visit www.watts.com/pages/contactUs.asp to contact us so that we can learn more and help.

Set it to the incoming cold water pressure. If your water pressure rises above 80 psi that needs to be corrected with the utility or your plumber. The expansion tank pressure should not be higher than the PRV setting. A standard water heater PRV shouldn't open until 150 psi so if yours is "set to 70psi" that seems wrong (is yours adjustable?).

Thank you for reaching out to us. Please visit www.watts.com/pages/contactUs.asp to contact us so that we can learn more and help.

If the tank is set to 50 psi, then the water pressure will increase to 50 psi before it starts filling the expansion tank. The negatives are you get a burst of pressure each time you open a faucet until it comes back down to 40 psi and possibly water hammer which may damage plumbing.

The tank should have been pre-charged to match your water pressure prior to be connected to the piping. It can still be done. Shut off the water at the service entrance and open a cold water faucet to relieve the water pressure. With 0-PSI in the water piping pump the tank up to 60-65 PSI. Then close the faucet and open the valve at the service entrance.

Ok, Will do. Thank you!

The water pressure reducing valve is usually found at the water service entrance. If you’re in a moderate climate not subject to freezing sometimes they are installed in a meter box outside the house.

Watts Water Technologies when you say water service entrance do you mean stop tap? There us a stop tap near fro.t door below it has a connected nothing comes our if it (obviously) my partner is seeking more pressure from the shower upstairs (non electric) thanks for feedback mate

Thank you for reaching out to us. Please visit www.watts.com/pages/contactUs.asp to contact us so that we can learn more and help.

In addition to the crimp connections we also offer the cinch clamps with the ratcheting cinch tool as well as our Quick-Connect fittings.

Using pliers with large enough jaws to encompass both sides of the bonnet should not present a problem although I would recommend trying to use two hands first.

Sorry for the delayed response. Please visit www.watts.com/pages/contactUs.asp to contact us so that we can learn more and help. Thank you for reaching out to us.

If the tank is already installed you should relieve the pressure on the system side until it is down to zero-PSI before charging the tank with air. Thank you for your interest and please let us know if you have any other questions.

2:22

Sorry for the delayed response. The tank is meant to be used for thermal expansion created by heating water in a closed system. You seem to be describing the use as an accumulator tank which is not the intended application. The installation of the tank on the CW side of a water heater should not cause a booster pump to cycle. All it should do is accept the expanded volume of water created by thermal expansion and push the water back into the system when it cools down.

Sorry for the delayed response, but we don’t sell direct to the public.

You can order from Amazon. You may need to get the check repair kit & the vent repair kit separately as I did. You should take it apart and look at your original parts to make sure they match what you are ordering to be safe. Easy fix.

Pressure drop will always occur through a softener, how much depends on the flow rate. But, increasing pressure drop through a softener could also be a sign of chlorine damage to the actual softening resin in a system that is used on a municipal or chlorinated water supply. Chlorine will cause the media to break apart over time, basically turning it to mush, which then begins to plug the distribution system of the softener, resulting in ever increasing pressure drop. If it has been determined that is not occurring then increasing the set pressure at the reducing valve will help keeping in mind not to exceed the pressure rating of the softener.

Thanks, it seems some of the new construction to our north & south has also being a culprit. Other neighbors have had pressure issues too. Our pressure fluctuates from time-to-time. Thanks for your response,.

Reduced volume is usually caused by a restriction. If the problem seems to be only at your kitchen faucet you might want to check the aerator to see if it’s plugged up with debris/scale. The aerator usually unscrews from the faucet spout in a counter-clockwise rotation. If the problem seems to be in the whole house most of our pressure reducing valves have integral strainers in them. Check the strainer screen to see if it’s plugged with debris.

Yes, that would be a good example of a typical application.

Pre-charge should be 50-PSI.

That's incorrect your air pressure should always be 2psi less than your cut on which is 40 psi if your using a 40-60- switch. Sonyour air pressure should be set at 38 psi

If your using a 30/50 pressure switch you should precharge your tank to 28psi. Always 2psi less than when your pressure switch turns the pump on

This is my situation as well, can you (Watts) speak to the comments about setting it below the cut on point?

Rick, did you go with the 50 psi and did that work for you? I'm about to install on the same setup. Thanks!

Water pressure should be adjusted at the water pressure reducing valve. With all downstream outlets closed, turn the adjusting screw clockwise to increase; counter-clockwise to decrease the pressure. A pressure gauge will be needed to know where your pressure is set at.

No, the water flow does matter. The installation instructions provided with the system show the proper tubing installation for feed water, reject (drain) water and pure water.

Watts Water Technologies thank you, the system was already installedish... so I didn't have instructions.

Sorry for the delayed response. This one fell through the cracks. To answer your question, PEX cannot be used for T&P discharge piping because it doesn’t have a high enough temperature rating.

If you loosen it too much the bolt will come out, but there should not be any water behind it. We apologize for the delay in answering this question.

Many times the hot water loses some pressure vs. cold water due to the restriction caused by going through the water heater. We apologize for the delay in answering this question.